Day 6: A New Windshield, Lutheridge, and Asheville

Good Evening,

I am lying in my extremely comfortable North Lodge B+B "Library Room" bed as I write this and Steve is out in the lounge reading some super-nerdy book about Hacking Google that he found on the shelves. To each their own! While blogging, I am listening to the luscious tunes of "The Reminder" by Feist, a new disc I picked up today while tooling around downtown Asheville (Zajack, if you don't have this one, get it, and Steve also picked up Midlake at your suggestion!)

We got started a bit later than planned today due to the whole windshield replacement thing, but eventually the fine gentleman from Triumph Glass (below) took care of business and we were on our way out of Clemson around 2pm. We spent the morning hanging at the Zajacks, chatting with Mark, learning some new shows ("Psychic," "Survivorman," "Dog the Bounty Hunter"), and having some great sandwiches from the local deli. My turkey on a croissant was certainly more appealing than the scorpions, ostrich egg, and locusts I saw survivorman eat in the desert--gross!! The drive to Asheville was a pleasant one, only about two hours, three megachurches and countless crosses from Clemson. When we got close to Asheville we started to see advertisements for a variety of Christian retirement communities. We happened upon one of these communities named, rather appropriately I thought: "Lutheridge." The crosses on the side of the road today got more graphic (writing not image) and had a lot to say about the saving power of the blood of Jesus. I've no problem with people professing their respective faiths, but it is so strange to see it so openly proclaimed around every corner. Christian condo complexes abound! We saw no offramp signs to the future today, but we did see one to the "Bat Cave," and alas, did not venture off, not knowing if Alfred would welcome us to Master Bruce's lair.

We arrived at our Bed and Breakfast, the Northlodge on Oakland, around 4pm, checked in, got the tour, got settled and decided to see a little of downtown Asheville. I am a huge fan of B+B's--Steve not so much--and this one is lovely. We strolled around downtown Asheville for a bit. I like the city--it's small, funky, and very artsy. We peeked in some galleries (suprisingly reasonable art prices); patronized the local music vendor; and, then went to eat at Tupelo Honey, a restaurant chosen because Kate sent me a gift certificate to it in my birthday package :-). The food did not disappoint. They do Southern with a twist (the twist being local, organic, and slightly healthier). Steve chose the pork loin, and I had the nut-encrusted fried chicken. It was all delicious, but the biscuits with peach butter and raspberry jam were the highlights for me. We intended to do some more strolling in Asheville, but shops close early, so we headed back to the Northlodge. It's been extremely hot in the Carolinas these past 2 days--over 100 both days, so hopefully it cools off soon. Asheville really doesn't seem like the South. The city has a lot of left-over Art-Deco flair from the 1930s (Kate and William, you guys would be big fans of the vibe and the architecture), and a lot of hippies, both young and old. It's likely the artsy influence, and the lovely Great Smoky Mountains backdrop. I've no idea what tomorrow brings. We're trying to decide between the Vanderbilt's mansion--Biltmore; Dolly-wood (seriously); and the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. We'll be sleeping in Nashville tomorrow night, camping again, but that's all that I know for certain. We'll see what the morning brings. Be Well!! -Lib


Pic 1: Getting a new windshield in the Zajack's Driveway
Pic 2: The Northlodge B+B on Oakland--our digs in Asheville
Pic 3: The local Asheville music store
Pic 4: Where Kate sent us for dinner...yum, and thanks!
Pic 5: Clarke Kent was nowhere in sight....

Day 5: 70 m.p.h, "Jesus Saves," and Geddy Lee in Chapel Hill

Hello!

Today we traveled 501 miles, so there's really not a whole lot to report--just a long day of driving. We packed up camp and left Camp Hatteras around 9am and got ready for the drive to South Carolina to visit the Zajacks. We saw many things of interest on the highway today and as Steve drove the whole way (I did offer...)I had plenty of time to observe. A few highlights:

In many spots, the speed limit was 70 mph--this was a first for both Steve and I!

We saw an exit ramp to the "Future" but were too scared of what we might see there to get off....

The Carolinas LOVE Billboards. They are everywhere on the highway--lots of advertisements for discount cigarettes, XXX shops, world's largest fireworks emporiums, and churches. In case you didn't know, "Jesus Saves," a fact I was reminded of every 300 yards.

Most churches have neon signs and crosses directing you off the interstate and into the congregation.

We saw gas prices as low as $2.40/gallon, and cigarettes for $2.10/pack.

There is a giant BMW factory in Greenville, SC.

We decided to get off the highway for lunch in Chapel Hill, NC to check out UNC (lots of light blue everywhere) and to visit one of the restaurants our Roadtripping USA book recommended. We drove around campus, found Franklin St., and headed into Peppers Pizza. Much to Steve's delight, on the menu was a slice named "Geddy Lee." Now, gentle reader, if you don't know who Geddy Lee is, he's only the bassist for Rush, the Canadian power trio and one of Steve's favorite bands! The Geddy Lee was artichoke hearts and sundried tomatoes, a combo that stymied Steve until he inquired of the waitress. She told him that toppings are by the number and so while artichokes are "21," sundried tomatoes are "12," hence "2112," the album title. Awesome. You can see Steve enjoying his slice below. We then headed back to the highway, arriving at the Zajack's lovely Clemson home around 7. We were treated to a super homecooked meal, where Steve decided he did like cous cous after all. Wonders never cease! Day 6 will bring us to Asheville, NC, and we will be departing for that fine city as soon as the friendly windshield man comes to repair the crack from the CT rock!

Pic 1: Peppers Pizza Menu in Chapel Hill, NC (note the "Geddy Lee")
Pic 2: Steve eating a slice of Geddy Lee
Pic 3: The sign on the stairs at the Zajacks in Clemson, SC
Pic 4: The Zajacks

Day 4: Lighthouses, Dunes, and Uncle Paulie...OBX Style

Good Evening,

So here I am, 10pm, sitting at the picnic table under the stars and blogging at the campsite. You can check out our digs below. Tomorrow we fold up the tent and head out to Clemson, SC to visit the Zajacks, friends of Steve from Colgate. It's a cool 500 miles from here, but the drive promises to be lovely and we do get to go through Roanoke (lost colony, anyone?), so I am looking forward to seeing all of that route 12 national seashore in the light of day. I've made the Zajacks promise some sort of home-cooking as eating out 2-3 meals a day is starting to get to me.

We began our day early, just kicking around the campsite, writing postcards (in my case) and lyrics (in Steve's case) until it started to get hot. We (well, really "I") decided that going to see the Cape Hatteras lighthouse (also below)--the tallest brick lighthouse in the United States--would be a cool thing to do since we were within 20 miles, so we went. It was a really lovely National Park site. I tried to use the $80 National Parks Pass I bought from the US government, but to no avail. The rangers told me it will work "out west;" that remains to be seen--this thing better get me into the Canyons. We paid our $7 fee/each to climb to the top of the lighthouse, all 269 steps to the top, the equivalent to a 12 story building. I heard the ranger tell a visitor that the lighthouse itself was made of 9,000,000 pounds of bricks--a pretty amazing feat of engineering for the mid-nineteenth century. The lighthouse was added on to on a few occasions because the beacon is a particularly important one. It warns sailors of a few very tricky currents, and the waters off of the coast are referred to as the "graveyard of the Atlantic," site of more than 600 shipwrecks. Oh yeah, and the Outerbanks is all about pirate stories--no shortage of skull and crossbones flags. The view from the top was really lovely and it was a completely clear day so you could see both the Atlantic and the Pamlico sound sides for miles and miles. We then travelled to the end of Hatteras Island (any further and we would have had to get on a ferry to Okracoke) and turned around, hungry for lunch and eager for the beach.

Two subway sandwiches later (Steve being a former sandwich artist at the Jersey shore), we headed back to Camp and to the beach. The beach exceeded both of our expectations. You can see the image below, but it was an enormous expanse of shoreline, with big breaking off-shore waves, soft sands, a good breeze, and very warm water. We spent the afternoon there, frolicking in the waves, reading, and trying to remain shaded from the sun (thank you neutrogena sunblock)! The early evening saw some studying from Steve, some laundry from me, and dinner at "Uncle Pauly's East Coast Surf Grill." Here's one of the many things I don't understand about North Carolina: you can still smoke in a restaurant, while eating dinner, or drive through a liquor store, but state law prohibits restaurants from cooking hamburgers anything less than well done. So strange. Nevertheless, a pleasant dinner, followed by a parking lot run-in with Uncle Pauly himself, quite the character. Uncle Pauly (maybe about 50) grew up in Kitty Hawk (of "first flight" fame) right down the road, dropped out of school at 15 and ran away to New York city and became a Union guy, a welder for boilers specifically. He's now back home, running his very strange restaurant. I could go on, but I'll spare you, just picture lots of gold jewelry, a New York accent, a dark tan, a harley hat, and wildly gesticulating hands--that's Uncle Paulie. An ice-cream cone and a shake from the Conery later, we were back at Camp Hatteras. Steve wanted to try out the pool, so we went night swimming, just getting back a few minutes ago. After seeing the beaches, I truly understand the appeal of the Outerbanks, and would definitely come back. Life in the South is a bit slow for me, but it's a fine pace for vacation. Time to get back in the tent, enjoy the ocean breeze and crashing waves, and get ready for tomorrow's long day in the car. Life is good.



Pic 1: Home Sweet Tent, Camp Hatteras
Pic 2: Cape Hatteras Lighthouse
Pic 3: After the 259 step climb to the top of the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse
Pic 4: The beach at our Campground (seriously)

Day 3: Pancake Houses and Time Travel--Williamsburg Style

Pic 1: Ye Olde Pepsi Machine--I wasn't aware such things existed in the 18th century....
Pic 2: Libby helping the colonial cause by stomping clay at the brickyard
Pic 3: Steve in the Stocks
Pic 4: This is for you Derek. This picture cost me $72 admission!





Greetings good sirs and ladies,

May I begin the evening by asking, as I sit in my camp chair, in front of my tent at Camp Hatteras in Rodanthe, North Carolina, in the heart of the Outer Banks (or OBX if you're cool): is it really 'camping' if you can be blogging on your computer? Well, it is completely dark, and the girls in the site next to us are roasting marshmallows over a fire, so I suppose I must be camping.

We started the day out in Williamsburg at the "charming" Super 8, and had our pick of no fewer than 15 local "pancake" houses to choose from for breakfast. We chose the Capitol pancake house simply because of proximity, and, once inside, we knew we were truly in the South. Maybe it was the mullets, maybe the fanny packs, maybe the votive candles with names on them for sale, maybe the pitchers of mountain dew at the table behind us, or the Nascar shirts....I am not sure what exactly tipped us off. Steve opted for blueberry, me for banana, and after enjoying our fill we decided to visit actual Colonial Williamsburg, for no other reason than who knows when we will ever be there again. As someone who has chosen history as a profession, you'd think I would have been more into the experience, but truly, the appeal was largely lost on me. You drive into the visitor's center, which looks like any John Hughes movie high school, pay your $36/person admission, hop on a shuttle bus, and are supposedly transported back in time. Actually, you are transported into a zoo of humanity--people from all over the world looking around not quite sure what they have paid to stumble into. Reenactments, restored houses, people in costume, colonial souvenirs....I never didn't feel like I was still in 2007. Some highlights were the cabinet maker's shop, as well as the coopers and the brick yard, where I took off my flip-flops and stomped around in the clay for 10 minutes. Derek requested a picture of Steve in a tricorner hat (see the best of them below), so we tried on a few, watched the fife and drum corps process to the parade ground, and walked back to 2007 via the 1/2 mile path to the visitor's center. I think that it would be nicer in the fall, with fewer people, but I am quite confused how people manage to plan a whole vacation around it. The colonial highway, a veritable smorgasboard of motels and pancake houses, led us to our next stop, Mini-golf USA which boasted itself as one of the 10 best courses in the USA, according to USA Today. Now, I have never set stock in USA Today, a glorified tabloid, but their credibility is now totally shot. It was a decent course, and a very reasonable $6/person, and it did have pin flags, but it was no "10 best." Steve would like you all to know that he won, 45 to 48, but I would like you all to know that I was leading up until the 17th hole.

We then decided to head South to OBX and our camping adventure, so back in the Taurus we were, heading to North Carolina. A mere 150 miles from Williamsburg, it was about a 3.5 hour drive. Once we hit North Carolina, confederate flags were a flyin' and we were inundated with billboards every 10 yards. I saw my first drive-through liquor stores, and lo and behold, we found a "Sonic." Now, anyone on the east coast who watches TV has seen the Sonic commercials, but the elusive drive-ins are nowhere to be seen in the North. We decided we had to give it a try and were not disappointed. I have found the perfect diet coke. Now, for me, a dc connossieur, this is no small feat. Sonic prides itself on being drink specialists, mixmasters, if you will.....Large diet coke, crushed ice, "lime flavor"-four real limes, and a styrofoam cup. Amazing. Steve's cherry limeade was pretty good too. We'll be back. It was still many more miles to Rodanthe and once we hit rt. 12 south, a one lane highway going through the National seashore, we knew we were going someplace cool--20 miles and not a soul or a light in sight, all duned beaches, which I look forward to seeing in the daylight tomorrow.

Well, it's getting late, and I've never camped before, so it's time to go join Steve in the tent and go to sleep to the sound of crashing waves. More tomorrow. Thanks for reading! -Lib

Day 2: Indians and Space

Greetings,

I must say, I am a bit surprised that the Super 8 even has wireless, but so it does and here I am. Super 8 is no hotel George, that's for sure, but I'll pretend I'm snuggled in down and air-conditioning, so here goes....And oh yeah, Williamsburg, VA is 'definitely' the South.

We started the day in DC on the later side, sleeping off the long drive of yesterday and deciding to go put in a quick workout at the hotel gym. I enjoyed the "bus girl" episode of Dawson's Creek on my private screen while on the elliptical machine while Steve sweated his way through yet another tee-shirt. We then (after showering of course) decided to hit the town and head towards the Washington Mall for a day of museums. We were starved for that meal that comes before lunch if you skip breakfast (brunch?), and so headed out of the oppressive August heat and humidity into the sweet, sweet, airconditioning of the new Smithsonian American Indian Museum. The museum is absolutely enormous--designed sort of like an Adobe Guggenheim--and beautifully landscaped. Our first stop was the cafeteria (remember, I am travelling with Steve), where we were overwhelmed at the selection. They've designed the cafeteria to feature the native foods of different regions, and so while Steve enjoyed a buffalo burger from the Great Plains, I tucked into a chicken enchilada and blackbean salad with quinoa cakes from the southwest. The food was extremely impressive and not really cafeteria like. We then headed to the fourth level to work our way down.

The exhibits were very well designed and informative and I really appreciated the work they did on the ramifications of contact with the Spaniards and other Europeans from the 14th-18th centuries (history nerd alert for most of the rest of the post), but most especially on the difficulties of preserving native and tribal culture today. I also like the choice of including native peoples from Mexico, Canada, and the Carribbean as well. What was really stunning was the fact that most of the museums collections (some 800,000) artifacts, were from ONE collector, a New York investment banker named George Gustave Heye, who died in the 1950s. I like the way that the curators decided to display many of the artifacts in large groups (like the cases with guns from the 15th to 20th centuries) but it sometimes took away from the power of individual artifacts. I highly recommend a visit to the museum if you've not been. After a few hours in the museum we wandered next store to the Air and Space museum, which, upon reflection, really has not changed too much since I was there in 1995.

Steve, preferring "space to Indians," happily wandered from exhibit to exhibit, learning about space flights, jet engines and turbines. Some of the exhibits were cool--like seeing the Spirit of St. Louis, or the old WWI planes. Since the Museum of American History is closed, the Air and Space museum houses a few rooms full of famous American objects, so I headed among the crowds in there to see: Lincoln's top hat, Prince's yellow guitar, Louis Armstrong's coronet, George Washington's Uniform, R2D2 and C3PO, an original Edison lightbulb, etc. We then watched a 3-D imax space station movie, narrated by the creepy Tom Cruise, before heading back out into the oppressive Washington Heat. It was really interesting to see the thousands of people at the Space museum in contrast to the fairly uncrowded Indian museum--telling, I think. We also saw no fewer than 3 kids get some part of a shoe stuck in an escalator in the museum, prompting some freakish situations and rescues. Too many people.

Strolling across the mall, towards the Capitol and the Hotel, we stumbled upon the memorial to the Japanese Americans interned by the US government during WWII. Having taught a great deal about internment the past few years, I knew the monument existed, but had never before seen it. It's tucked away in a remote spot on the way toward Union Station, but the monument setting is much larger than I thought, and extremely moving. The centerpiece is a large crane (for peace) bound with barbed wire, and surrounded by walls engraved with the names of the "Relocation Centers" and the thousands interned there. It was incredibly moving, and really something everyone should see. This was a blight on our history (and maybe I was feeling it more so because of the hours at the Indian museum), and more attention should be paid in order to never forget.

We made it back to the hotel in one piece, picked up the car and luggage, and headed off to Williamsburg. Approximitely 160 miles from Washington, we thought it might take us 2.5 hours to get there, but no, due to some freakish 95 South traffic, it took more like FIVE HOURS. That's a roadtrip for you. We had our first Crackerbarrel (the country store and restaurant) experience, which was better than expected--chick'n'dumplings were good as were biscuits, etc. We finally made it to Williamsburg around 10:30, safe and sound, and ready for bed. Tomorrow, a bit of Colonial Williamsburg, and a drive to the Outerbanks of North Carolina.

Pic 1: Our nation's Capitol, literally....
Pic 2: The bound crane.
Pic 3: The Museum of the American Indian
Pic 4: Steve didn't believe I saw them in the exhibit he refused to go into, so here's proof!
Pic 5: One of the many amusing signs I saw today, this in the Air and Space toystore.

Day 1

Greetings,

The trip began at 8:30 this morning in Framingham as we pulled out of the driveway slightly behind schedule for our drive to Washington DC. Wait, what schedule--we're on vacation!! All went smoothly until Connecticut when an errant rock hit the windshield and started a bit of a crack--oh well, not like the Taurus doesn't have other dings on it. We spent more time than necessary in New York as the George Washington bridge traffic was backed up for an hour for no apparent reason (shocker). This allowed plenty of time for me to play the license plate game--only one day into the trip I already have 22 different states--and for Steve to listen to all of the Rush songs playing on sirius radio (3 at last count--3 too many). After finally crossing the bridge, Steve and I remembered (with good reason) why we hate New Jersey Turnpike Reststops after an extremely lackluster BK cheeseburger (cold) and salad. New Rule: no more rest stop lunches! After miles of electrical wires and the random cornfields and stop and go traffic we smiled as we exited NJ and crossed into Delaware, Maryland, and then, finally Washington DC around 5:30. We checked into the super cool Hotel George not far from the Capital and were greeted with a box of chocolate covered fruit treats (thanks Kate), two glasses of wine (thanks hotel george), and the news that it was restaurant week in DC, allowing us to be able to afford to eat in the very swank Bistro Bis attached to the hotel. So, we munched on grilled pork and steak frites (banishing all thoughts of Jersey rest stop cuisine) and watched all of the Washington-politicos work the bar crowd. Now, in an airconditioned room (finally!!), under a down cover and watching pre-season football, day one comes to a close. I think Steve's right that you don't stay in the nice hotel first. Somehow, I don't think the Super-8 in Williamsburg is going to hold a candle to this place. Tomorrow we plan to kick around DC--hitting the air and space museum and the Smithsonian.

Pic 1: Steve telling me to stop turning his head to take a picture when he was trying to drive.
Pic 2: The George Washington bridge traffic--more than an hour of glorious truck fumes.
Pic 3: Thanks Kate!!
Pic 4: Who doesn't love when a room comes with zebra robes--Steve relaxing after a 9-hour drive!

I Hate Packing!!!

We leave in three days for a 15 day trip across the USA, ending in Santa Fe and I am stressing. The trip will be great; I am just having problems wrapping my head around the fact that I am going to be in Santa Fe until Christmas and then moving to Maine. New adventures are exciting, but leaving Boston (and BC!!) after 11 years is bittersweet. Yikes, so much to do. What to bring? (What not to bring?) How to see everyone before I leave? I think I will delay answering any of these questions and instead watch my favorite night of TV--how can you beat John from Cincinnati, Entourage, and Flight of the Conchords on HBO? You can't!!